To me, the greatest reward from travel is not the destination itself, but the sublimity of the experience that somehow continues to resonate with you long after you return home. The following was written after a trip to Rome a few years ago...As any great city will, Rome reminds us why we travel. The real discoveries – the experiences that hang on longest after the trip is over – are not the “must-sees” we highlighted in our guidebook before leaving home. These are merely the embellishments that draw us to her. Rome’s true allure reveals itself in more subtle ways.
We visit, of course, those obligatory sites. It is expected. For one does not go to Rome without seeing the Coliseum, or without marveling at the harmonious architecture of the Pantheon. We eat gelato while sitting on the Spanish Steps next to the Keats House. Exercise neck muscles to capture the full panorama of Michelangelo’s masterpiece on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. And, following tradition, throw coins over our shoulder into the Trevi Fountain to assure our return to Rome.
But the memories that haunt us the most afterwards are those that come about unexpectedly – the dozens of feral cats that escort us on the Palatine Hill; the artisans restoring century-old furniture in tiny workshops tucked into the medieval buildings a few blocks off the
Campo dei Fiori; the
osteria on a side-street in Trastevere, where we eat lavishly and inexpensively and then successfully negotiate with our waiter in our rudimentary Italian for the ceramic pitcher he’d served our
vino rosso in.
And we remember the Sunday morning church bells, their chiming replacing the usual early-morning cacophony of Vespas and spirited conversations over
cappuccini beneath our hotel room window.
The first bells arouse us from the deep sleep of exhausted travelers. Then, one by one, other bells from Rome’s hundreds of churches join in, permeating the morning with their collective celebration.
This ethereal wake-up call draws us from our bed to the window, as if the sound of the bells might actually be seen, as well as heard. The sun, though not yet dipping into the shadows of the
piazella below, pours invitingly into our third-floor room. The late-February air teases of spring. But the bells dominate the morning.
The day before, we’d walked among the ruins of the Roman Forum, imagined we might actually be placing our feet upon the very stones that Julius Caesar once walked, yet still conscious of that vast chasm between past and present.
But these bells chiming across the city defy such temporal barriers. This, we realize, is the same Sunday morning concerto that centuries of travelers to Rome have awakened to. As they might have, we linger at the window and listen, captured in the web of that continuum. We know now why Rome is the Eternal City. This is why we have traveled here.